The Porteño Pizza Renaissance
Is Buenos Aires the Pizza Capital of South America?
Hola ya’ll! How’s everyone surviving Buenos Aires in January? I love it when the city is empty—it feels like a completely different place, making me more aware of my surroundings. The other day, while wandering around my barrio, I counted four new pizza spots within blocks. And I’m not talking about just any pizza— I’m talking good pizza: sourdough starters made with care, thoughtfully sourced toppings, and fire-blistered crusts.
Buenos Aires has always been a pizza city. But in my (mostly) humble opinion, it hasn’t always been delicious pizza. For years, lactose-intolerants were stuck with media masa, cheese-exuberant slices, a culinary rite of passage focusing on nostalgia rather than flavor. But something’s changed. Porteño pizza is having a renaissance, and I’m here for it.
While traditional joints still hold their ground, a wave of modern pizzaiolos is shaking up the neo-Porteño pizza scene in a big way. New spots are popping up faster than I can track, and my pizza list (yes, I have a pizza list, don’t you?) keeps growing. I delayed writing this, determined to try every place first. But then I thought, BASTA! There’s only so much pizza a boluda can eat! Part two can always come later, right?
The Year of Pizza: Buenos Aires Is Having a Moment
Whether you’re craving nostalgic, cheese-laden classics, traditional Italian pies, or bold, creative takes with unexpected toppings, the Buenos Aires pizza scene is thriving like never before. Here are my 8 picks (in alphabetical order) for pizzerias redefining the neo-Porteño pizza scene:
El Cuartito
The Vibe: Old-school Buenos Aires pizzeria at its finest.
I’ll be honest: Buenos Aires-style pizza isn’t really my thing. Please don’t deport me. I blame my lactose-intolerant, gluten-sensitive stomach (and maybe my preference for thinner crusts, despite hailing from the deep-dish capital of the world). Even though I don't lose my shit at the sight of piled-high cheese bungee-jumping off a slice, or crave BA-style pizza like many locals, I can still appreciate the greatness of El Cuartito, a true icon of Porteño pizza culture. Open since 1934, this spot deserves major props for its consistency of excellence over the decades—a rare feat in this city, let alone anywhere.
The best way to experience El Cuartito? Skip the full pie and sit-down section; instead, eat it de parado (standing), fork and knife in hand. And yes, you should absolutely pair it with fainá—a dense chickpea cake traditionally (and inexplicably) served with pizza. It defies logic and food science, but somehow, it works. El Cuartito isn’t just a pizzeria—it’s a time capsule of Buenos Aires food culture.
What to Order:
Muzza: Plain ‘ole cheese pizza.
Napolitana: Cheese, tomato, and garlic—simple, satisfying, and classic.
Fugazzeta: Onions and cheese.
Fainá: Chickpea cake, the ultimate pizza sidekick.
El Cuartito
Address: Talcahuano 937, Recoleta
Instagram: @cuartito_paginaoficial
C.A.N.C.H.A
The Vibe: Modern, creative, cool, and casual. Outdoor seating only.
Cancha was a game-changer for Buenos Aires pizza. The dough—a perfect balance of chewy, crispy, and deeply flavorful—is the undeniable star. Wilson Rodríguez, the brains and brawn behind it all, brings innovation to every element, from the toppings to the masterful use of their wood-fired oven. The menu features four fixed pizzas, like four-cheese with kale and honey, and off-the-menu specials like the miso butter and onion (imagine French onion soup in pizza form) and the BLT pizza—either worth prioritizing if they’re on the board that day. And then there’s the lahmajun (Middle Eastern-style lamb pizza), a standout topped with fresh salad—a pairing (pizza and salad) that should be mandatory everywhere.
While Cancha now has proper tables and table service (a major upgrade from its early days of makeshift furniture), the seating is still outdoors, and they haven’t completely retired the crates as chairs. As a señora, I have my limits and not going to perch my aging culo on that.
What to Order:
Lahmajun: With lamb and topped with lettuce, parsley, onion, and a squeeze of lemon.
Miso Butter and Onion Pizza: It’s like French onion soup in pizza form.
BLT Pizza: Bacon, lettuce, tomato energy with Caesar salad vibes.
Fainal Fantasy: Cheese-stuffed fainá, served with fresh greens and pickles.
Basque Cheesecake: Creamy, rich, and the perfect way to end the meal.
C.A.N.C.H.A
Address: Loyola 902, Villa Crespo
Instagram: @canchapizza.ba
Gordo Chanta
The Vibe: Pizza, vino, y faso*. It’s like they read my mind—my three favorite things: pizza, wine, and weed ; )*
“Gordo Chanta” translates to “fat liar” or “fat bullshitter” in Porteño slang—a name that perfectly captures its playful and rebellious spirit. Located on the Villa Crespo-Chacarita border, this restaurant has become my go-to for inventive pizzas and a laid-back atmosphere. Born on a Palermo rooftop during the pandemic, Juan Carlos Ortiz honed his craft to create a chewy, doughy masa with a fluffy crust. The wood-fired oven churns out pies that break all the rules—except for one: they have to taste good. Standouts include the simple but reliable tomatoes, garlic confit, and salsa verde; the Big Gordo, reminiscent of a Big Mac; and the Fig and Stracciatella, which gets an extra kick from spicy honey. But el Gordo isn’t just about the pizzas—the small plates hold their own: the tostada de pesca topped with fresh fish and chipotle mayo, aguachile with shrimp and cucumbers, and the black garlic butter, which is dangerously addictive and served with pizza bread.
What to Order:
Fig Stracciatella Pizza: The spicy honey gives it an interesting and innovative twist.
Big Gordo: Big Mac pizza, anyone? A fatty Ronald McDonald combo you didn’t know you needed.
Tostada de Pesca: Fried corn tostada with chipotle mayo and fresh fish.
Aguachile: With shrimp, cucumbers, and red onions. Super fresh and spicy, perfect for the summer.
Black Garlic Butter & Bread: Because bread and butter is my favorite food group.
Salmoncito Cocktail: Grapefruit juice, gin, Campari, and tonic—a must aperitivo.
Pro tip: For a full experience, head downstairs to the Zona de Producción bar, which shares a space with their actual production kitchen. It’s like stepping into Total Recall—a sleek, futuristic space that feels straight out of an 80s sci-fi movie.
Gordo Chanta
Address: Juan Ramírez de Velasco 1200, Villa Crespo
Instagram: @gordochantapizzeria
Ipolitina
The Vibe: A charming, family-run Italian pizza al taglio shop.
When adorable grandparents are at the helm of a culinary project, I’m blindly on board. If the food is good too? Consider me their biggest fan. Ipolitina in Chacarita is the kind of neighborhood spot you dream about: a tiny, family-run storefront specializing in Roman-style pizza al taglio (sold by the slice). Baked in large rectangular trays, the thick, almost focaccia-like slices come with a satisfying crunch on the bottom and toppings like mortadella with pistachio, roasted eggplant, potato, or fresh mozzarella and tomato. The nonnos and their grandchildren run the show, offering a limited amount of pizza (and only open during the day), so go early to get the best selection before they sell out. Don’t skip the pastries either.
What to Order:
Margherita: Fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella, and a drizzle of olive oil—a classic done right.
Potato pizza: Thinly sliced potatoes with rosemary and olive oil on a crisp, airy base.
Cannoli: Creamy ricotta filling with a bright citrus twist, finished with pistachios.
Sfogliatelle: Delicately layered and flaky with just the right touch of richness.
Ipolitina
Address: Dorrego 1065, Chacarita
Instagram: @Ipolitina.pizza
Kalis Pizza
The Vibe: Pizza bros jonesing for a New York slice.
Kalis Pizza, the newest slice shop shaking up Nuñez, is already making waves with lines out the door. Baker Franco Kalifon spent time in NYC and Italy studying dough and pizza-making techniques before returning home to craft a totally unique pizza style unlike any other in Buenos Aires. The menu keeps it simple with three standout slices: a classic cheese featuring a custom ‘pizza cheese’ blend for the perfect melt, a pepperoni slice with thin, crisp, caramelized ‘roni edges, and the signature Kalis slice, topped with pesto, burrata, parmesan, tomato sauce, lemon zest, and a drizzle of hot honey.
The crust is thin and crisp, with a layer of panko on the bottom for extra crunch to prevent the dreaded limpy flop. While the sauce leans sweet, and I found myself wishing for a shaker of crushed red pepper flakes to add some spice, the high quality of the dough, cheese, and toppings leaves little room for complaints.
What to Order:
Cheese: Thin, crispy, and timeless.
Pepperoni: Thinly sliced, crisp edges, caramelized, with a touch of hot honey.
Kalis: Pesto, burrata, parmesan, tomato sauce, lemon zest, and hot honey.
Kalis Pizza
Address: O’Higgins 3578, Núñez
Instagram: @kalis.pizza
La Sorellina
The Vibe: A cozy Neapolitan pizza and wine bar serving up sisterly love.
La Sorellina, the “little sister” of Ti Amo Pizzeria in Adrogué, a southern suburb of Buenos Aires, is the Santoro sisters’ latest venture, bringing their world-class Neapolitan pies to Colegiales. Ti Amo earned a spot on the prestigious 50 Best Pizzas in the World list, and La Sorellina carries on the Naples tradition with its airy, light dough that’s perfectly charred in a wood-fired oven. Stick to the classics like marinara, margherita, and diavola, or try something inventive like the vodka-sauce pizza or pizza bianca. One pizza per person is ideal and it’s recommended to put down the fork and eat the pizza with your hands.
What to Order:
Marinara: A minimalist’s dream with tomato, garlic, and oregano.
Margherita: The perfect balance of tomato, mozzarella, and basil.
Diavola: Spicy, savory, and loaded with flavor.
Vodka Pizza: Creamy vodka sauce meets Neapolitan crust.
Pro tip: La Sorellina is small and fills up fast, so go early when they open. They are now on Rappi so you can order delivery—although nothing beats eating it fresh, straight from the oven.
La Sorellina
Address: Freire 1393, Colegiales
Instagram: @lasorellinapizzabar
Roma de Abasto
The Vibe: Nostalgia meets quality in a restored bar notable that keeps BA’s pizza traditions alive.
When Julián Díaz and Martín Auzmendi (the duo behind La Fuerza vermouth) took over Roma de Abasto, they didn’t just revive a beloved pizzeria—they gave new life to a piece of Buenos Aires’ identity. Their mission goes beyond pizza: it’s about preserving culture through thoughtful updates that honor the past while keeping things fresh. Walking into Roma feels like stepping into a time capsule, where old-school charm meets subtle modern touches. Think thick, cheesy media masa pizzas and wood-fired empanadas that pay homage to the city’s culinary roots.
Roma de Abasto isn’t just a pizzeria; it’s a reminder of why these historic spots are worth saving, creating a space where tradition evolves without losing its soul.
What to Order:
Fugazzetta: A classic loaded with layers of white and red onions, mozzarella, olive oil, and green olives.
Empanada de Carne Picante: Boldly spiced beef with ají locoto, egg, and a hint of heat.
Empanada de Pollo a la Leña: Wood-fired chicken with caramelized onions, garlic, and paprika—simple yet deeply flavorful.
Vermouth La Fuerza: Some of Argentina’s best vermouth.
Roma de Abasto
Address: Anchorena 806, Abasto
Instagram: @romadelabasto
Togni’s Pizza
The Vibe: New York slice meets Detroit with a touch of Porteño flair.
Togni’s Pizza, opened in 2021 by Maximo Togni, is part of a growing empire that includes hits like Dogg, Togni’s Café, and newly opened Evelia. At Togni’s pizzeria, the focus is on delivering some of the best New York-style slices, crafted with 24-hour cold-fermented sourdough and Italian tomatoes, where every slice has the ideal crisp-chewy-fold and bite balance you’d expect from a pizza-obsessed chef.
While classic cheese and pepperoni slices are crowd-pleasers, Togni’s also offers rectangular, Detroit-style pizzas (think de molde), a thick crust with caramelized edges. And don’t skip dessert—flan and key lime pie are both the perfect way to round out the experience.
What to Order:
Classic Cheese: Foldable, cheesy, and a bite of the Big Apple
Pepperoni: Tangy sauce, cheese, and crispy in-house pepperoni.
Rectangular de Molde: Detroit-style pizza with caramelized crust.
Key Lime Pie: Best (and pretty much only) in town.
Togni’s Pizza
Address: Blanco Encalada 1665, Belgrano (Barrio Chino)
Instagram: @tognispizza
Pick Up the Pizza Map
CANCHA is some of the best pizza I’ve ever had
Of course I have a pizza list. Just added Roma de Abasto.